Svalbard by Sailboat July 25 - August 15, 2008 Journal

(see http://blog.daisygilardini.com/ for a more detailed chronology and wonderful pictures from the trip)

   1    25.07.2008
    10:00 meeting with Skipper
    14:00 last shopping
    19:00 departure
    Night shifts Driving the boat.


   2    26.07.2008
    77.00.17    15.11.50    (noon time positions)
    Early afternoon arriving Hans Glacier
    Reposition to Burger Bay - zodiac cruise - Spot the first two bears mum with cubs swimming
    spot another bear far away


   3    27.07.2008
    77.01.25    15.54.37
    9:40 zodiac cruise at Burger Bay spotted another bear - swimming - got out of water - very relaxed
    Then continuing cruise to Paier Glacier
    Passage to Tusen Islands with pack ice South East Stor Fjord
    Night shifts


   4    28.07.2008
    76.56.37    21.33.59
    Arrived in Tighdomane Islands (walrus) Anchored and lunch
    Scharebolmane Islands (walrus bones) part of Tigdomane Islands
    Reposition Arctica to Walrus beach.


   5    29.07.2008
    76.58.49    22.04.17
    7pm we leave towards Halvmane Island (Half Moon)
    Saw some walrus + bearded seal


   6    30.07.2008
    77.16.50    23.07.18
    01:00 am young polar bear
    Anchored at Halvmane Island - bed time at 3:30am.
    Breakfast at 1am. Landing at trapper huts around 15.00. Famous trapper Henry Rudy (1935)
    Cruising Halvmane strait
    Anchored at Andree peninsula for dinner
    Visit Russian settlement 1700's walrus hunt South of Delish Island
    Visit of Henry Rudy's hut (1946) on Andree peninsula


   7    31.07.2008
    77.24.52    21.50.17
    Till 4am zodiac cruise for walrus and polar bears
    Left Andree peninsula
    Kval point (Cape) with waterfall
    Habenich bay => Visit to the biggest ruins of Russian Settlement / rest of several stone houses and blubber ovens
    West of Russen bay - Walruses on ice floes Arctica in ice
    Arrived at bird cliff Disko at 11pm


   8    01.08.2008
    77.57.15    21.18.54
    Disembark at bird cliff - foxes - reindeer - eclipse
    Barbecue on the beach and then back with playing foxes
    After dinner on beach at Cape Lee with walrus
    Trapper's hut on the beach (1904)


   9    02.08.2008
    78.15.01    21.42.21
    Cruise of Freeman strait. Blocked with ice.
    All looking at a polar bear with cub
    Start cruising along the east coast of Barents Island
    Zodiac cruise at Jakimovic Islands


   10     03.08.2008
    78.35.12    21.05.27
    Back through Heley strait
    Polar Bear at Cape Mühry
    Three hours cruising to get to the Bastian Islands


   11    04.08.2008
    79.16.27    22.10.58
    Left Bastian Islands and sailed toward the Aust Icecap.
    No engine only sailing.
    We are cruising along the ice edge of the Icecap viewing Brasvell glacier.
    Wonderful waterfalls and very old iceberg
    Cruising to Wahlenbergerg fjord
    Arrived in Wahlenberg fjord and entered Plander bay - Mountain with hoodoos Zeipel.
    Stopped for dinner and then cruise along the Bay and reached Palander glacier.


   12    05.08.2008
    79.45.16    20.33.51
    During night crossing of Wahlenberg fjord. Wake up anchored at Gromodden. Cruise around a very nice blue iceberg.
    Very very rough crossing of Hinlopenn strait
    Arriving in Murchinson fjord - snow, wind and fog.
    Crossed the 80 degrees!
    Try to park in fast ice then moved to anchor in Nordvika Bay.
    Outside a snowstorm with strong wind!


   13    06.08.2008
    80.01.57    18.45.29
    Still anchored at Nordvika Bay storm is picking up with stronger winds and thick fog.
    Evening reposition Arctica at Kinnvika Bay a scientist polar station built in 1957 for the Geophysical year.


   14    07.08.2008
    80.03.18    18.05.37
    We leave Kinnvika Bay for Clara Lagoon.
    North through the Hinlopen strait - Walrus on ice floes.
    The ice is getting thicker and thicker and Arctica is struggling a lot in 8/10 pack ice.
    We are stuck for few hours in Nordporten the North entrance of Hinlopen strait.
    The current and the wind are against us and we are drifting south.
    Skipper finally finds a way out of the heavy pack ice and we cruise South and around it to find our way North.


   15    08.08.2008
    80.03.13    15.59.39
    In the morning at the Northernmost tip of Spitzbergen in Verlegenbuken.
    Still in 7/10 pack ice
    West of Mossel Penisnula - bearded and Greenlandic seals - polar bear
    Cruise to get to Liefde fjord
    Wonderful blue icebergs and Monaco Glacier


   16    09.08.2008
    79.41.03    13.21.10
    Cruising out of Liefde fjord
    Great view of the mountain ridge of the Northern tip of Andreeland.
    Sailing west towards Raud fjord
    polar bear North of Reinsdyrflya
    A bit later we spot a bearded seal.
    We enter Raud fjord and we anchor at Hamilton bay.


   17     10.08.2008
    79.50.41    11.31.16
    Cruise a very narrow strait among the Norsk Islands.
    Fugle fjord with its wonderful Svitjod glacier
    Smeerenburg fjord and then enter the famous Magdalen fjord.
    Night watch on the way to Ny-Alesund


   18    11.08.2008
    Ny-Alesund
    Search for whales in Kongsfjordrenna
    We cruise Kross fjord and we anchor at Signe Bay.


   19    12.08.2008
    It is 1:30am when we depart for our walk.
    Back on board at 6am, snack and nap.
    At 1pm we are heading towards the Lillieböck glacier.
    Heavy seas.


   20     13.08.2008
    Longyearbyen.
    on our way to Svea glacier in Nord fjord. We arrive at our destination around 8pm and we go for a zodiac cruise among nice blue icebergs.


   21     14.08.2008
    Svea glacier in sunshine and after breakfast we head towards Ekman fjord.
    zodiac cruise along the Säfstrom glacier
    Back on board around 2pm and heading towards the Russian ghost town of Pyramiden in Bille fjord. We disembark around 9pm.


   22     15.08.2008
    At 12:30am BBQ on the beach. Back on board at 4:30am
    We arrive in Lonyearbyen around 11:30am.






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